Remove the Charger Damper assembly from the upper tube and wipe the whole damper assembly over with a paper towel or rag Be careful not to let the socket slip and damage the fork. Use a 30mm socket wrench to loosen the damper top cap. Remove the low speed adjuster knob from the fork. RC Only: Use a 4mm hex wrench to remove the knob retaining nut. Use a 6mm socket wrench to loosen the compression mode adjuster knob retaining nut. RCT3 Only: Use a 2mm hex wrench to remove the low speed adjuster knob screw and then remove the low speed adjuster knob. Use a rag to catch the small amount of suspension oil which will exit from the hole in the lower leg. Use a 5mm hex wrench to remove the bottom bolt. Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to loosen the set screw and remove the rebound adjuster knob located at the bottom of the drive side fork leg. ![]() We also supply 100ml Genuine RockShox 3wt Suspension Fluid with every kit. Our very own RockShox Charger Damper Bleed Kit contains the Charger Damper bleed tip and a secure locking syringe to eliminate leaks and keeps the fluid in the system instead of all over your workshop. Bicycle work stand or vice with soft jaws.Let's get started by taking a look at the tools involved to get this thing out. This will allow for a full bleed at the cartridge's full extension." "For best performance, remove the damper cartridge from the fork. It sure would be quicker to do the latter.Īfter plenty of time researching I couldn't find a definitive answer so I decided to contact RockShox themselves who said this: I debated for a long time whether it would be best to remove the Charger Damper from the fork before bleeding it or if the process could be simplified by leaving the Damper in the fork. We'll be working on our Pike RCT3 fork for the purposes of this guide but the steps will be similar for the Charger Damper in your BoXXer fork too. It carries a 94g weight penalty over a comparable SID and, despite the proprietary Predictive Steering hub interface (which severely limits wheel options), it still suffers from the torsional stiffness issues that have plagued inverted designs of the past.In this guide we'll show you how to bleed your RockShox Charger Damper using our Charger Damper bleed kit. Most inverted mountain bike forks have suffered from excessive torsional flex or, if they were stiff enough for the job, they came with a significant weight penalty over traditional designs. While inverted forks are the norm for motocross, the history of upside-down suspension forks on mountain bikes is mixed. A tip to RS-1 users: Locking the fork out before removing the wheel makes installation easier. It’s mildly comical when you’re not in a hurry, but the joke is on you when attempting to reinstall the wheel and axle after a mid-race puncture. Once the thru-axle is removed, the lower legs are free to pivot and change height as they please. This is critical to prevent the free-roaming front brake line from scuffing the spokes under compression.Īlso, wheel installation and removal is more involved than with a standard fork with a 15mm thru-axle. Other considerations that must be made for the RS-1 as a result of its design include careful attention to accurate hose length trimming and alignment. But that’s not an ideal situation with an entry-level fork, let alone one with a category-leading price tag. Over time, we learned to compensate for the fork’s vague feel and adjusted our riding styles to straightline through entries, apexes and exits in order to offset steering flex with suspension strength whenever possible. The rs-1 lowers are held together by a proprietary 110x15mm front hub which relies on oversized, 27mm endcaps to bolster stiffness:Ī new front wheel built around the RS-1’s proprietary front hub must be factored into the already steep price of admission
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